Saturday, May 7, 2011

Ile de La Beaute: La Corse


Island of Beauty: Corsica
7 Mai

“Have you ever heard of Corsica?” Didier ventured, eyebrow raised .
Oh boy, you have no clue who you are dealing with. I am a Schmautz, aka recepticle of random useless knowledge. “Yes, it's where Napoleon was born.”
He chuckled, pleased. This was the first conversation I recall ever having about Corsica. It was at the dining room table with my host father on my very first trip to France. He was a jovial man who daily offered Schnapps for breakfast, “Peach? Mint?” It was unclear why he thought this was so funny but he did, and now it kind of is, in a weird way.

Either way, that conversation planted a seed. Months later in Nice I tried to convince my friends we really needed to take a ferry down to Corsica. No takers. The question was obviously posed to the wrong people. Now, seven years later, that someone has been found. My cousin! Super exciting, I must say. Katie is coming to France tomorrow (this will probably be the only real-time blog on this entire site). After a couple joyful days of getting to help her discover Paris for the first time we will fly to Corsica.

Corsica. Look it up on the internet. And drool. There is no way it could be more built up in my mind so hopefully it won't be too disappointing when we arrive and find it isn't heaven on earth after all. But you have to admit, the stats are staggering. Corsica is an island in the Mediterranean that is a part of France but still fiercely independent, covered in mountains, and trilingual. Sea. Mountains. French speaking. A deadly combination. It could only be compared to grapes plus chocolate plus crack. Not all at once, and I don't really know if crack is all that good, but people seem to like it.

Our plans revolve around hiking, swimming in the ocean, tasting some wine,camping, kayaking, driving the coast, maybe some canyoning just for good measure, who knows. Don't worry, we'll scope it out for your future trip.

Joyeuses Paques


Happy Easter!
Sunrise over Paris at Sacre Coeur.

Les Soirées


Evening Parties.
Spring is here and that means picnicking along the Seine river and dancing. Can you spot yours truly?

Mmmm...


The other day there was an interesting discovery the extensive Porte de Clignancourt flea market. Besides the English words, do you notice anything odd in thie photo? Click on the pic to enlarge it.

La Princesse de Bel Air


The Princess of Bel Air.
Ok, that title is cheezy. Oh well. It's a Prince of Bel Air joke so there's no way to not be cheezy. I recently moved out of my apartment (the tallest building in the background) in the neighborhood of Bel Air. It was a wonderful place and it will always bring back (mostly...) fond memories.

Au Marché


Oh, the joys of the Saturday morning market!

Lycée


High School

Few would venture to call the French school system "nurturing". Remember how when people talk about their great grandparents and say, “They were old school” or “They were from the old country” to excuse the severity and stoicism of their ancestors? Well, France is the old country. When people came to America they shrugged off the old methods of doing pretty much everything. Over here in the old country, nothing was shrugged. Time just plodded forward on the same track. So education is still old school. This doesn't mean it is less effective, it is just different. There are some ways it could be edged along though, in my opinion. Students are told they are not good enough far more than they are told they are adequate. If I had a euro for every time a teacher told me in front of their students, “This class is not very clever.” or, “She could be a good student but she doesn't work hard enough.” I would be too rich to know what to do with myself.

In junior high or early high school they take exams that slot them into tracks which then determine what track they get to take in life. It is having to decide your future career path when your main concern is if your immediate future includes acne. The track you choose is crucial. If you are in the Science track, you are a smarty pants, you'll succeed in life. Maybe you'll become an engineer. You see, the French love engineers. It is actually kind of weird how much they like them. Engineers are fine, great, no prob. I know lots of great engineers. But it seems so strange that a country that has been steeped in so many philosophers, artists, writers, and all around stick-it-to-the-man visionaries would now become so stuck on engineering. You have to admit, it just doesn't have the same ring.

What if your academics only qualify you to be a STG? Yikes, you are going have the honor of being in a dull job your entire life. Aren't you excited? Why aren't you motivated to get an A on this test now? Literature track? Oh, sorry, you weren't quite smart enough to get on the Science track now where you? Shame.

Bill Gates never would have happened in France. It is a uniquely American model. Overall, the system points out what students don't know and all their failings. Due to this, students are afraid to stand out or improvise for fear they will be slammed down. They take few risks and seem to just want to keep their heads down to slink out of high school.

Granted, there is benefit to identifying and dredging out fault. If you are doing something incorrectly, it is invaluable to be told so you can fix it. Americans, it seems to me, often grow up in an environment where everyone is so youth focused and wants to make their children feel nurtured that we forget to tell people they are doing it wrong. We see this all the time on shows like American Idol. A girl has been rejected and she counters by saying, “They just are all wrong (the professionals). I am the best singer ever and they don't even know.” Her mother then, petting her head, says something equally ridiculous.

So, I have taken it upon myself to give these kids a different experience. Hopefully, they will see that school and learning can be actually be fun! There are three rules in the classroom. 1) Be respectful. 2) No sidetalk 3) Don't be afraid to make mistakes. I always thought that if hell froze over and I became a teacher I would be like Mrs. Brown, my old highschool AP English teacher. She was notorious for her A to ZZZ multiple choice tests and crazy hard expectations but we loved her. She was exacting, loved her material, and treated us like we actually had something to say. We worked in that class not only for the A but for her. I have not been a Mrs. Brown. I have been such an easy teach. However, I do love my students and they seem to like me – wanting to talk to me in the halls, approaching me at the train station and the like. So, ok, maybe these kids won't have a command of English by the end of the year but that wasn't really my goal anyways. Don't tell the French government that. In this class the kids are at ease to volunteer conversation (learning!), are able to ask questions without fear, and see that all Americans aren't either like Britney Spears or Obama. It hasn't been a cakewalk and there have been some rows but am confident we, the students and I, will make it out alive.

Elegance


France. Home of all that is elegant and refined? (look closely)

De Tres Bonne Heure


Very early mornings along the Seine is a priceless experience.

Un Jour Typique


Printemps
A Typical Day

French high school is very different from American high school. To start with, there seems to be a dress code amongst these teenagers, rigid as any Catholic school. For the girls, it is ballet flats, converse, or heeled boots. Skinny jeans, black or stone washed. A fitted top with a leather jacket. Long straight hair, big earrings, lots of eye makeup, expertly applied. For the boys, it is thin soled sneakers or converse, black of course. Skinny jeans, black or stonewashed, usually with lots of seams and excessive stitching. Somehow, they manage to sag their jeans despite the snug fit. It's a mystery of science better avoided. Next, a tight black jacket with lots of pockets and a hoodie, gel in the hair, and a murse. Yep. You read that right. A murse.

Most students do not drive (that comes at 18 if you are lucky) and either get rides from parents or take public transport, whether that be a bus or train to school. There is no parking lot or school bus system for these kids! Upon arrival, they hang out on the pavement between the road and the school gate. Here, they greet their friends with the bise, the kiss on both cheeks and proceed to bum cigarettes off each other. They are highly successful because, especially on cold days, it looks like an atomic bomb has gone off. Smoking is the norm, not the exception.

The bell buzzes and a few minutes later they consider picking up their giant purses (girls) and Eastpak backpacks (boys) but don't budge until the very last minute. The second bell rings and the students pile up outside the locked classroom doors and chat. The narrow hallways here would qualify as fire hazards in the States. But they do allow you to become very familiar with the perfumes, colognes, and overripe scents of your students.

Around five to ten minutes after the final bell has rung the teacher comes strolling down the hall, totally unconcerned. Every time, the students loudly jeer their tardiness. Every time, the teacher waves dismissively, “I had things to do.” (aka shooting the breeze in the teachers' lounge) My students don't really know what to do with me since I am actually punctual. One time, they didn't come and didn't come. I looked out the door, they were waiting for me in the hall! Usually I keep the door open so they can see I am waiting inside. This particular day it had fallen shut. They are so unused to prompt teachers that they didn't even think to knock or try the door.

Once the teacher enters, the students are to file in silently (which come on, never happens) and stand at their desks until allowed to sit and put their bag on the floor, never on the desk. Next comes roll call and the latecomers. Well, we should say the really latecomers because by now they've have already wasted fifteen minutes.

The rest of class depends on the teacher, but overall the French educational methods leave me with little more than pity for these children. It is harsh, uncreative, and resembles stuffing a brain into a box of carefully regimented expectations. Somehow these same kids grow up to have perfectly effective careers, thank goodness.

Their class schedules are similar to a college schedule in America. It is sporadic but the hours extend later into the evening. However, everyone has a 20 minute break in the morning and afternoon for their cafe or cigarette in addition to at least a one hour lunch. When I explained to my students that American kids finish everyday at 3:15p, five days a week rather than the French 6 days, they were sorely jealous. Then they found out that American high schools start at 8:15am and run straight through with only one 30 minute break for lunch. They were astounded. 30 minutes? That is it? Many of them were then glad for the unhurried French method.

Students generally do not have a strong rapport with their teachers. They don't have school sports or clubs. There is no graduation with its robes and fanfare. At the end of your three years of high school you just... walk out of the doors. Au revoir. School is strictly school. If you want to have fun you had better find it elsewhere. The only extracurricular activities I have seen is students making out in the halls – a full contact sport mind you, and the smoking of various substances in the front entry. The students have massive amounts of free time and use it to lounge around the public spaces and flirt. That was what startled me the most on my first day. “Who are all these kids? And why are they all hanging out in the hallways? Shouldn't they be in class or something? And where in the blazes are the hall monitors?”

Yet, loitering aside, there are some benefits to running a school like this too. There is less concern with popularity and the social food chain. The school must save loads of money by not supporting all of these clubs and sports. The emphasis is education. There is no freshman initiation and no pandering for favors. Also, there seems to be fewer parents living vicariously through their children and people missing their golden boy days. Different? Yes. Better? Worse? No, just different. Personally though, I must admit contentment to have grown up in America.

Oh Ciel!


Oh, heavens no!

Jouets!


Toys!